Your choice of oils decides how hard the bar is, how it lathers, and how it feels. Most recipes mix a few kinds: - Hard oils and butters like coconut, palm, cocoa butter, shea butter, lard and tallow make a firm bar. Coconut and babassu add big, cleansing bubbles. - Soft (liquid) oils like olive, sweet almond, avocado, canola, sunflower and rice bran make a milder, more conditioning bar. On their own they make a softer bar. - Castor oil in small amounts boosts lather. - Waxes like beeswax and candelilla add hardness, but use very little.

A classic starting framework is coconut for lather, olive for mildness, and palm or lard for hardness. Hundreds of recipes are variations on it.

Swapping an oil? Every oil has its own SAP value. Run the new recipe through the Lye Calculator every time you change an oil, even if you keep the same weight.

Common oils at a glance

SAP values are grams of lye per gram of oil, from SoapCalc. The NaOH value is KOH × 40/56.1. Hardness, cleansing and conditioning are SoapCalc's scores for the oil on its own. Usage amounts and shelf lives are Bramble Berry's cold process recommendations.

Olive Oil

• NaOH SAP: 0.1355

• KOH SAP: 0.190

• Bramble Berry cold process use: up to 100%

• Shelf life (BB): 2 years

• What it does: Mild, slow to trace; soft bar on its own

• Hardness: 17

• Cleansing: 0

• Conditioning: 82

Coconut Oil, 76° (regular)

• NaOH SAP: 0.1832

• KOH SAP: 0.257

• Bramble Berry cold process use: up to 33% (about 15% for a gentler bar)

• Shelf life (BB): 18 months

• What it does: Big bubbles and strong cleansing; can feel drying at high amounts

• Hardness: 79

• Cleansing: 67

• Conditioning: 10

Palm Oil

• NaOH SAP: 0.1419

• KOH SAP: 0.199

• Bramble Berry cold process use: up to 33%

• Shelf life (BB): 1 year

• What it does: Hardness; melt and stir the whole container before measuring

• Hardness: 50

• Cleansing: 1

• Conditioning: 49

Shea Butter

• NaOH SAP: 0.1276

• KOH SAP: 0.179

• Bramble Berry cold process use: up to 15%

• Shelf life (BB): 2 years

• What it does: Hardness and a creamy feel

• Hardness: 45

• Cleansing: 0

• Conditioning: 54

Cocoa Butter

• NaOH SAP: 0.1383

• KOH SAP: 0.194

• Bramble Berry cold process use: up to 15%

• Shelf life (BB): 2 years

• What it does: Very hard; more than 15% can crack bars

• Hardness: 61

• Cleansing: 0

• Conditioning: 38

Castor Oil

• NaOH SAP: 0.1283

• KOH SAP: 0.180

• Bramble Berry cold process use: 2–5% (up to 25%)

• Shelf life (BB): 2 years

• What it does: Boosts lather; over 10% can make bars soft and sticky

• Hardness: 0

• Cleansing: 0

• Conditioning: 98

Avocado Oil

• NaOH SAP: 0.1326

• KOH SAP: 0.186

• Bramble Berry cold process use: up to 20%

• Shelf life (BB): 1 year

• What it does: Conditioning; softer bar

• Hardness: 22

• Cleansing: 0

• Conditioning: 70

Sweet Almond Oil

• NaOH SAP: 0.1390

• KOH SAP: 0.195

• Bramble Berry cold process use: up to 20%

• Shelf life (BB): 1 year

• What it does: Light, conditioning

• Hardness: 7

• Cleansing: 0

• Conditioning: 89

Canola Oil

• NaOH SAP: 0.1326

• KOH SAP: 0.186

• Bramble Berry cold process use: 15–40%

• Shelf life (BB): 1 year

• What it does: Budget-friendly olive oil substitute

• Hardness: 6

• Cleansing: 0

• Conditioning: 91

Sunflower Oil

• NaOH SAP: 0.1348

• KOH SAP: 0.189

• Bramble Berry cold process use: about 20% (up to 100%)

• Shelf life (BB): 6 months

• What it does: Conditioning; keep refrigerated

• Hardness: 11

• Cleansing: 0

• Conditioning: 87

Rice Bran Oil, Refined

• NaOH SAP: 0.1333

• KOH SAP: 0.187

• Bramble Berry cold process use: about 20%

• Shelf life (BB): 2 years

• What it does: Similar to olive oil

• Hardness: 26

• Cleansing: 1

• Conditioning: 74

Babassu Oil

• NaOH SAP: 0.1747

• KOH SAP: 0.245

• Bramble Berry cold process use: up to 33%

• Shelf life (BB): 2 years

• What it does: Coconut or palm substitute

• Hardness: 85

• Cleansing: 70

• Conditioning: 10

Mango Seed Butter

• NaOH SAP: 0.1362

• KOH SAP: 0.191

• Bramble Berry cold process use: up to 15%

• Shelf life (BB): 2 years

• What it does: Hardness; temper for best results

• Hardness: 49

• Cleansing: 0

• Conditioning: 48

Kokum Butter

• NaOH SAP: 0.1355

• KOH SAP: 0.190

• Bramble Berry cold process use: up to 10%

• Shelf life (BB): 2 years

• What it does: Hard butter

• Hardness: 60

• Cleansing: 0

• Conditioning: 37

Avocado Butter

• NaOH SAP: 0.1333

• KOH SAP: 0.187

• Bramble Berry cold process use: up to 12%

• Shelf life (BB): 3 years

• What it does: Creamy feel

• Hardness: 31

• Cleansing: 0

• Conditioning: 61

Beeswax

• NaOH SAP: 0.0670

• KOH SAP: 0.094

• Bramble Berry cold process use: up to 8%

• Shelf life (BB): 3 years

• What it does: Hardens bars; speeds trace; needs 150°F+ to stay melted

• Hardness: 90

• Cleansing: 0

• Conditioning: 50

Jojoba Oil (liquid wax)

• NaOH SAP: 0.0656

• KOH SAP: 0.092

• Bramble Berry cold process use: up to 10%

• Shelf life (BB): 2 years

• What it does: More can weigh down lather

• Hardness: 0

• Cleansing: 0

• Conditioning: 12

Hemp Seed Oil

• NaOH SAP: 0.1376

• KOH SAP: 0.193

• Bramble Berry cold process use: up to 15%

• Shelf life (BB): 1 year

• What it does: Conditioning; shorter shelf life

• Hardness: 8

• Cleansing: 0

• Conditioning: 90

Grapeseed Oil

• NaOH SAP: 0.1291

• KOH SAP: 0.181

• Bramble Berry cold process use: up to 15%

• Shelf life (BB): 1 year

• What it does: Light, high linoleic

• Hardness: 12

• Cleansing: 0

• Conditioning: 88

Apricot Kernel Oil

• NaOH SAP: 0.1390

• KOH SAP: 0.195

• Bramble Berry cold process use: up to 15%

• Shelf life (BB): 1 year

• What it does: Light; small bubbles

• Hardness: 6

• Cleansing: 0

• Conditioning: 93

Argan Oil

• NaOH SAP: 0.1362

• KOH SAP: 0.191

• Bramble Berry cold process use: up to 10%

• Shelf life (BB): 2 years

• What it does: Luxury oil

• Hardness: 15

• Cleansing: 1

• Conditioning: 81

Meadowfoam Seed Oil

• NaOH SAP: 0.1205

• KOH SAP: 0.169

• Bramble Berry cold process use: up to 20%

• Shelf life (BB): 1 year

• What it does: Similar feel to jojoba

• Hardness: 2

• Cleansing: 0

• Conditioning: 98

Neem Seed Oil

• NaOH SAP: 0.1376

• KOH SAP: 0.193

• Bramble Berry cold process use: 3–6%

• Shelf life (BB): 2 years

• What it does: Strong smell

• Hardness: 39

• Cleansing: 2

• Conditioning: 58

Safflower Oil

• NaOH SAP: 0.1369

• KOH SAP: 0.192

• Bramble Berry cold process use: up to 20%

• Shelf life (BB): 1 year

• What it does: Similar to canola or sunflower

• Hardness: 7

• Cleansing: 0

• Conditioning: 90

Sesame Oil

• NaOH SAP: 0.1340

• KOH SAP: 0.188

• Bramble Berry cold process use: up to 10%

• Shelf life (BB): 1 year

• What it does: Use plain, not toasted

• Hardness: 15

• Cleansing: 0

• Conditioning: 83

Soybean Oil

• NaOH SAP: 0.1362

• KOH SAP: 0.191

• Bramble Berry cold process use: about 15% (up to 50%)

• Shelf life (BB): 3 months refrigerated

• What it does: Short shelf life

• Hardness: 16

• Cleansing: 0

• Conditioning: 82

Hazelnut Oil

• NaOH SAP: 0.1390

• KOH SAP: 0.195

• Bramble Berry cold process use: up to 20%

• Shelf life (BB): 3 months

• What it does: Slows trace

• Hardness: 8

• Cleansing: 0

• Conditioning: 85

Rosehip Oil

• NaOH SAP: 0.1333

• KOH SAP: 0.187

• Bramble Berry cold process use: about 10%

• Shelf life (BB): 2 years

• What it does: Light oil

• Hardness: 6

• Cleansing: 0

• Conditioning: 89

Tamanu Oil (kamani)

• NaOH SAP: 0.1483

• KOH SAP: 0.208

• Bramble Berry cold process use: up to 5%

• Shelf life (BB): 2 years

• What it does: Specialty oil

• Hardness: 25

• Cleansing: 0

• Conditioning: 73

Walnut Oil

• NaOH SAP: 0.1348

• KOH SAP: 0.189

• Bramble Berry cold process use: up to 15%

• Shelf life (BB): 3 months

• What it does: Short shelf life

• Hardness: 9

• Cleansing: 0

• Conditioning: 78

Coconut Oil, Fractionated

• NaOH SAP: 0.2317

• KOH SAP: 0.325

• Bramble Berry cold process use: up to 30%

• Shelf life (BB): 3 years

• What it does: Stays liquid; softer bars, less lather than regular coconut

• Hardness: 100

• Cleansing: 100

• Conditioning: 0

Palm Kernel Flakes, Hydrogenated

• NaOH SAP: 0.1761

• KOH SAP: 0.247

• Bramble Berry cold process use: up to 15%

• Shelf life (BB): 1 year

• What it does: Very hard; speeds trace

• Hardness: 90

• Cleansing: 66

• Conditioning: 4

Peanut Oil

• NaOH SAP: 0.1369

• KOH SAP: 0.192

• Bramble Berry cold process use: up to 25%

• Shelf life (BB): 1 year

• What it does: Olive or canola substitute

• Hardness: 11

• Cleansing: 0

• Conditioning: 82

Emu Oil

• NaOH SAP: 0.1355

• KOH SAP: 0.190

• Bramble Berry cold process use: up to 13%

• Shelf life (BB): 1 year

• What it does: Animal oil

• Hardness: 32

• Cleansing: 0

• Conditioning: 55

Lard (pork fat)

• NaOH SAP: 0.1412

• KOH SAP: 0.198

• Bramble Berry cold process use: not listed

• Shelf life (BB): not listed

• What it does: Adds hardness and creamy lather (SoapCalc)

• Hardness: 42

• Cleansing: 1

• Conditioning: 52

Tallow, Beef

• NaOH SAP: 0.1426

• KOH SAP: 0.200

• Bramble Berry cold process use: not listed

• Shelf life (BB): not listed

• What it does: Animal fat; compare the scores

• Hardness: 58

• Cleansing: 8

• Conditioning: 40

Stearic Acid

• NaOH SAP: 0.1412

• KOH SAP: 0.198

• Bramble Berry cold process use: not listed

• Shelf life (BB): not listed

• What it does: Hardener; compare the scores

• Hardness: 99

• Cleansing: 0

• Conditioning: 0

Candelilla Wax

• NaOH SAP: 0.0314

• KOH SAP: 0.044

• Bramble Berry cold process use: not listed

• Shelf life (BB): not listed

• What it does: Plant wax with a very low SAP value

• Hardness: 68

• Cleansing: 0

• Conditioning: 60

The Lye Calculator includes 138 oils, fats, butters and waxes from SoapCalc's list.

• NaOH SAP:

• KOH SAP:

• Bramble Berry cold process use:

• Shelf life (BB):

• What it does:

• Hardness:

• Cleansing:

• Conditioning:

Freshness

• Old or rancid oil can cause dreaded orange spots (DOS) and off smells. Write the date on each container when it arrives.

• Short-shelf-life oils like hemp, flax, walnut and sunflower keep longer in the fridge.

• Melt and mix the whole container of palm oil before measuring. Its fatty acids separate, and a partial scoop gives inconsistent soap.

A note on SAP values

Published SAP values vary a little from source to source, and from one batch of oil to the next. This is one reason soapers use a superfat. Our calculator uses SoapCalc's values. We checked them against Soapee's table, which matched for every oil Soapee lists, and against The Sage's calculator, which came within 0.6%. Bramble Berry's quick-reference chart has some SAP numbers that look like typos (for example "19" for peanut oil), so we didn't use it for SAP values.

Sources - SoapCalc oil list (SAP values, fatty acids, quality scores). https://soapcalc.net/oil-list - SoapCalc: Getting Started (coconut/olive/palm framework; coconut above 30–35% can be drying). https://soapcalc.net/gettingstarted - Bramble Berry: Beginner's Guide to Common Soap Making Oils (usage rates, shelf lives, palm oil melting). https://www.brambleberry.com/beginner/beginners-guide-to-common-soapmaking-oils.html - Soap Queen: Soapy Mess-Up Quick Guide (DOS and rancid oils). https://soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/tips-and-tricks/soapy-mess-quick-guide/